Exclusive interview with Mark Buxton - one of the most creative perfumers recent years.
TATIANA GRABOWSKA: Dear Mark, I'm very pleased to meet you and I?m grateful that you agreed to tell us about yourself. Please tell me, what does the perfumer work give you and what qualities are needed to be a nose?
MARK MUXTON: 1st of all a sharp nose, good olfactive memory and lots of creativity. It?s a long training of 5 years to become a perfumer, once you are there. Creating perfumes is the most magic thing I can imagine. You learn new accords every day, it?s never the same or boring!
What are your favorite perfume ingredients and what is the most unusual component you used in your perfume?
I like lots of ingredients: Vetiver, Sandel, Musk notes, Ambroxan, Cashmeran, modern woody notes, Orris, Rose, Jasmin, Fir, Maltol, Osmanthus , Davana?etc I can give you hundreds ?.perhaps the most unusual are , Dodecenal-trans 2 (which smells fresh Corriander),Sureau Abs.,Oakwood Abs.,Cork Abs., And lots of chemicals in over dose, which give a lot of character.
As I?ve noticed the profession of a perfumer is dominated by men, what do you think about it? After all, women are so sensitive to smells.
The perfume industy used to be dominated by men, esecially in France, families from Grasse, (Macho business). Today this has all changed, I would say it is aroud 50/50
What do you think is the difference between a modern perfumery and traditional one? Is this work easier or more difficult than years ago?
I think that traditional perfumery is more complex and more difficult. To master,especially working with natural products, the younger generation have lots of difficulties with this. Today with a computer and very sophisticated analyse methods it is far easier to ?make ? a perfume, I don?t even want to say ?Create?,
Too much mixing, thats why every thing smells the same.
I can?t resist asking you about the scent you are proud most of all?
CDG2;Cologne Noir(Van Cleef), Kapsule light;( Lagerfeld) and more I like a lot of my babies!!
What fragrance does a perfumer wear himself? The one he created himself? And what are you wearing today?
I started off with Vetiver from Guerlain, then Vetiveru from CDG. And today Emotional Rescue MBP; which is also a Vetiver theme. As you can see 2 out of the 3 are my creations! Vetiver is just the best smell in the world!!!
Does it happen in your practice to create a fragrance for an individual person, not for the company?
Yes I either create for Niche brands or individuals. As you know I left the big industry over 3 years ago. So I hardly work for big houses or big prestige brands any more.
On your website, I read that you're a hedonist. What is the meaning of hedonism for you?
I love the pleasure in lots of things, eating , drinking, fashion, music. I love to stay up dated, just like my perfumery sharp, clear, provocative. Modern and hopefully brings lots of pleasure to people. Always looking for something new, very curious,?.
I know you're very busy. You and your partners just opened the shop ?Nose? in Paris. You are developing your own business - Perfarium. Do you have time for hobbies such as cooking? What do you like cookong? And what kind of wine do you prefer?
As you say I am a rather busy guy, I?m not the guy with the 7 passports , but the guy with the 7 Jobs!!!! Yes we opened our niche boutique ?Nose? Which is a very big succsess in Paris. Perfarium is a company i have with a partner, where we do everything,bottle,packaging, perfume. Concept if wanted, 100% finished product.
MBP is my company, with 1st my brand,(new and totally different line will come out next year,surprise!!!!) and I also create for other brands or individuals. I do lots of consulting jobs too and travel a lot for my brand. Work with lots of artist etc. As you say I have enough to do.
I cook every evening for my family,No1 hobby. Weekends I' am in the country side (if not traveling) never(hardly) in Paris. I like cooking everything, all my way, no cooking books, lots of fresh herbs and spices. Lots of fantasy!! Just like perfumery, my wife and boys say I am the best cook in the world...hihi.-:)
Mainly red wine, Bordeaux is great, Italien, spanish etc as long as they are good.
I?m dreaming of creating my own perfume, I love animal note and oriental fragrances. What advice could you give me to make my dream come true?
You have to talk to a perfumer, give him the task to create your fragrance, it?s just a matter a price( not so expensive)
Look on my web site, I?m one of the few perfumers which make dreams come true.